What to experience – from architecture, coastal living and local gems to museums, historic landmarks and family adventures from Helsingør to Hornbæk.
The Travel Edit is a summer series in The Journal, where inspiring profiles share their personal guide to places in Denmark that hold a special place in their hearts.
Pil Kallesø is an architect originally from Helsingør, where she now lives once again with her family after several years in Copenhagen. Together with her husband, she runs her own architecture studio, and the family has made their home in the iconic Romerhusene designed by Jørn Utzon.
As both an architect and communicator, Pil has a unique ability to make architecture feel approachable and relevant. Through Instagram, she shares glimpses of everyday life with her two young children, showing how architecture is not only about beautiful buildings, but also about the way we live, experience and connect with one another – and the spaces that shape family life.
Here, Pil shares her personal guide to North Zealand – from museums and historic buildings to harbours, forests, beaches and local favourites.
Pil Kallesø is an architect originally from Helsingør, where she now lives once again with her family after several years in Copenhagen. Together with her husband, she runs her own architecture studio, and the family has made their home in the iconic Romerhusene designed by Jørn Utzon.
As both an architect and communicator, Pil has a unique ability to make architecture feel approachable and relevant. Through Instagram, she shares glimpses of everyday life with her two young children, showing how architecture is not only about beautiful buildings, but also about the way we live, experience and connect with one another – and the spaces that shape family life.
Here, Pil shares her personal guide to North Zealand – from museums and historic buildings to harbours, forests, beaches and local favourites.
I was born and raised in Helsingør and attended the local Steiner School for twelve years. My entire family still lives here, and this area has always been a huge part of my identity. After ten years in Copenhagen, we bought one of Jørn Utzon's iconic Roman Houses in 2020 and moved back home. I've never looked back.
What I love most about North Zealand is that it has everything: cultural heritage, forests and beaches. Helsingør is one of Europe's best-preserved medieval towns, and a walk through the old town reveals just how beautifully it has been maintained.
In summer, I love the small harbour towns and the coastal lifestyle – especially Hornbæk Beach and the surrounding plantation, which have been part of my childhood and are now part of life with our own young children.
I also love that the local identity is still alive. You can really feel the DNA of the town. Sometimes places begin to resemble Copenhagen too much, whereas I'm always searching for the opposite.
That's why I keep returning to places that have always been there: a great bagel from Miss Coffee, made exactly the same way for the past 30 years, or a plate of peel-your-own prawns by the harbour. They may not be the newest or trendiest places, but they're authentic – and they tell the story of the area.
Miss Coffee Stengade 17, 3000 Helsingør
Bakeria at Helsingør Harbour. They make the best baked goods in town. Their little courtyard is incredibly cosy, and in the summer they host a Friday bar with drinks, beer and snacks.
Another place I’m very fond of is Hej Humlebæk by Humlebæk Station. I sometimes meet up there with my friends from the children’s Steiner nursery over a good coffee and a sandwich.
Bakeria: Nordhavnsvej 3, 3000 Helsingør
Hej Humlebæk: Hal Kochs Vej 14, 3050 Humlebæk
Bakeria at Helsingør Harbour. They make the best baked goods in town. Their little courtyard is incredibly cosy, and in the summer they host a Friday bar with drinks, beer and snacks.
Another place I’m very fond of is Hej Humlebæk by Humlebæk Station. I sometimes meet up there with my friends from the children’s Steiner nursery over a good coffee and a sandwich.
Bakeria: Nordhavnsvej 3, 3000 Helsingør
Hej Humlebæk: Hal Kochs Vej 14, 3050 Humlebæk
We often visit Hellebæk and the old Hammermølle, which serves fantastic traditional Danish open sandwiches. The protected mill and its surroundings are absolutely beautiful, and it's one of those places where time almost stands still. Afterwards, we nearly always walk around the lake and continue into the forest.
It perfectly captures everything I love about North Zealand: nature, history and tranquillity.
We also always return to Divino in Espergærde, where I've been going since childhood. It's a family-run Italian restaurant with delicious food, reasonable prices, Italian waiters and an interior that's wonderfully 1990s in exactly the right way. Across the road is their pizzeria, Divina, where we often pick up pizzas to enjoy on Espergærde Beach with the children. That's summer to me.
Hammermølle: Bøssemagergade 21, 3150 Hellebæk
Café Divino: Mørdrupvej 1 A, 2060 Espergærde
We often visit Hellebæk and the old Hammermølle, which serves fantastic traditional Danish open sandwiches. The protected mill and its surroundings are absolutely beautiful, and it's one of those places where time almost stands still. Afterwards, we nearly always walk around the lake and continue into the forest.
It perfectly captures everything I love about North Zealand: nature, history and tranquillity.
We also always return to Divino in Espergærde, where I've been going since childhood. It's a family-run Italian restaurant with delicious food, reasonable prices, Italian waiters and an interior that's wonderfully 1990s in exactly the right way. Across the road is their pizzeria, Divina, where we often pick up pizzas to enjoy on Espergærde Beach with the children. That's summer to me.
Hammermølle: Bøssemagergade 21, 3150 Hellebæk
Café Divino: Mørdrupvej 1 A, 2060 Espergærde
Tegner's Museum. I've been visiting since I was a child, and it's still one of my favourite places in North Zealand. The combination of art, landscape and atmosphere makes it truly special.
Whenever we're there, we almost always stop by Thorshøjgaard, a biodynamic farm near Dronningmølle, where we buy beef salami and sausages to take home. On the way, we often stop at Damsmosegård to buy biodynamic milk in large glass bottles directly from the roadside refrigerator.
If you enjoy theatre, I'd also recommend checking out HamletScenen at Kronborg Castle. It's a wonderful experience for both adults and children, bringing together history, culture and community across generations.
Tegner’s Museum: Museumsvej 19, 3120 Rusland
Thorshøjgaard: Museumsvej 1, 3120 Dronningmølle
HamletScenen: Kronborg 16, Kronværksbyen, 3000 Helsingør
Tegner's Museum. I've been visiting since I was a child, and it's still one of my favourite places in North Zealand. The combination of art, landscape and atmosphere makes it truly special.
Whenever we're there, we almost always stop by Thorshøjgaard, a biodynamic farm near Dronningmølle, where we buy beef salami and sausages to take home. On the way, we often stop at Damsmosegård to buy biodynamic milk in large glass bottles directly from the roadside refrigerator.
If you enjoy theatre, I'd also recommend checking out HamletScenen at Kronborg Castle. It's a wonderful experience for both adults and children, bringing together history, culture and community across generations.
Tegner’s Museum: Museumsvej 19, 3120 Rusland
Thorshøjgaard: Museumsvej 1, 3120 Dronningmølle
HamletScenen: Kronborg 16, Kronværksbyen, 3000 Helsingør
The newly opened Butik Hverdag in Helsingør is one of my favourites. I also love Soeurs in Gilleleje and the wonderfully unique Tibberup Høkeren in Helsingør, which is always worth a visit.
Butik Hverdag: Stjernegade 17A, 3000 Helsingør
Soeurs: Vesterbrogade 3F, 3250 Gilleleje
Tibberup Høkeren: Sct Anna Gade 4A, 3000 Helsingør
Hornbæk Beach, Hornbæk Plantation, the landscape surrounding Tegner's Museum, Grib Forest, Gummistranden in Helsingør and Hellebæk Forest.
Hansens Is in Brostræde, Helsingør, or at Hornbæk Harbour. Frk. Marina at Helsingør Harbour is also excellent.
Frk. Marina: Nordhavnsvej 2c, 3000 Helsingør
Hornbæk Beach, Hornbæk Plantation, the landscape surrounding Tegner's Museum, Grib Forest, Gummistranden in Helsingør and Hellebæk Forest.
Hansens Is in Brostræde, Helsingør, or at Hornbæk Harbour. Frk. Marina at Helsingør Harbour is also excellent.
Frk. Marina: Nordhavnsvej 2c, 3000 Helsingør
Helsingør Harbour is, all in all, a fantastic place to visit with children. Here you’ll find Bakeria, Frk. Marina, the harbour bath, a playground and the Øresund Aquarium, where the children can catch crabs with the staff. Meanwhile, you can sit back with a coffee from Miss Coffee and enjoy the view. And don’t be too posh to order a plate of peel-and-eat prawns from the fishmonger or their fish fillets. It’s the very essence of a Danish summer. The best bit is that, as a parent, you can actually relax whilst the children play or catch crabs, because the harbour area is so well laid out.
I wish I had more time to read. It’s mostly non-fiction and inspiration for our projects, or books to read with our children.
On the other hand, I already know that I’ll be listening to ‘Fries Before Guys’. I’ve been a loyal listener to the podcast since the very beginning, and they’re with me everywhere – whether I’m sketching designs, tucking the children in, cleaning or doing the shopping. They always give me a good laugh and make me feel good.
– Helsingør Harbour with Kulturværftet, Nordhavnen and the Øresund Aquarium
– Hornbæk Beach and plantation
– Hellebæk and the old Hammermølle
– Tegners Museum and the surrounding countryside
– Kronborg Castle, where we have our studio in the old infirmary
Follow Pil Kallesø here
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