Skin pH – A skin in balance
Af kosmetolog Christina Düsterdich
A scientific explanation
Our work on the skin’s pH has been a game-changer in our product development. Based on science, it has led to a product that, quite simply, strengthens the skin and optimises its health.
Read about the HERO pH solution here and delve into the important information about the skin’s pH below.
What is pH?
pH is a numerical value used to measure the acidity of, for example, water, skincare products and the skin’s surface. On a scale of 0–14, pH values are measured in terms of acidity and alkalinity, where 7 is neutral, anything below 7 is acidic, and anything above 7 is alkaline. Balanced skin thrives at a pH value of around 5, which means that the skin is at its best when it is slightly acidic. The body’s internal environment, on the other hand, functions best around the neutral value of 7.
Is your skin’s pH in balance or out of balance?
The pH scale
Why is the skin’s pH important?
The skin’s pH plays a crucial role in its condition and appearance. The skin deserves the best possible conditions, and the most important starting point for achieving healthy skin is a stabilised pH level. Changes in pH affect enzyme activity and disrupt the natural cell-regenerating processes that are vital for the skin’s health.
The skin has a fine protective layer on its surface: the acid mantle, which consists of sebum and sweat from the skin’s many microscopic pores. The acid mantle’s primary function is to protect by maintaining an optimal balance of moisture, oil and the skin’s natural bacterial flora. At the same time, it must also protect against external, harmful bacteria, fungal infections, UV rays and pollution. In this way, the acid mantle acts as an essential protective barrier and a ‘knight in shining armour’ for the skin’s immune system.
What happens if the skin’s pH is out of balance?
If the skin’s pH becomes unbalanced and shifts towards neutral, alkaline or overly acidic levels, the acid mantle is compromised and temporarily thrown out of balance. It can take several hours for the protective barrier to stabilise and recover, and in the meantime, the skin is vulnerable and susceptible to, amongst other things, infection, irritation and dryness. If this happens on a daily basis or several times a day, the acid mantle does not regenerate optimally.
The skin therefore takes longer to return to its optimal pH, and as a result remains dry, vulnerable or stressed – and this is precisely where many skin problems originate.
There are many factors that affect the skin, and when something as simple as tap water causes the skin to become more alkaline, many of us will have an excessively high pH for many hours throughout the day. With all the other factors also at play, the acid mantle can be adversely affected for a long time. This means that the skin is less resilient and therefore more vulnerable.
How long it takes for the skin’s pH to stabilise depends on skin type, age, gender and much more.
What can affect the skin’s pH?
The skin’s pH is affected by many internal and external factors. The pH level of the skin can vary depending on where on the body it is measured, and many dermatological conditions, such as various forms of dermatitis, will cause fluctuations on the pH scale.
External factors
- External factors that affect the pH balance may include, for example:
- Contact with water; bathing, washing hands and cleansing the skin.
- Contact with soap and cleaning products.
- Use of harsh, astringent face and body care products and cosmetics.
- Over-treatment of the skin, for example with scrubs and exfoliating skincare products.
- Dirt and pollution.
- Changes in temperature and weather.
- Visits to swimming pools.
Internal factors
- The body’s endogenous environment; hormones, gender, age, genes and lifestyle can all affect the skin’s pH.
- Gender can play a role, as the pH level is often slightly lower on men’s skin than on women’s, since men’s skin tends to produce more sebum.
- Just as our age is usually reflected in our skin, the pH level will do the same to a lesser extent. A newborn baby, whose protective acid mantle has not yet fully developed, has a slightly alkaline pH and therefore particularly sensitive skin. As hormones change throughout life – for example, during puberty, pregnancy and the menopause – the skin’s pH can also change.
- Healthy dietary and lifestyle choices can help the skin maintain a healthy pH level.
What happens if the skin’s pH shifts towards neutral or alkaline? (7 or above)
The skin is shifted towards a more neutral or alkaline level through contact with water, soap and cleaning products, visits to swimming pools, hand sanitiser, or if the skin is cleansed and exfoliated. When the skin is too alkaline, it can suffer from extreme dryness and have a tight, fragile surface. Skin with a pH value of around 7 or above is more prone to inflammation and imbalanced enzyme activity, which accelerates the skin’s ageing process and breaks down collagen fibres. The skin may also be prone to spots and acne due to the lack of the skin’s emollient and protective sebum.
What is the optimal pH when the skin is in balance? (approx. 5)
This is the ideal starting point for healthy skin. A slightly acidic pH helps to maintain the skin’s beneficial bacterial flora. These bacteria form part of the skin’s immune system, preventing harmful bacteria from penetrating the skin. Furthermore, the skin’s natural sebum production is balanced, and the acid mantle therefore provides optimal protection. The skin is supple and feels neither too dry nor too oily.
What happens if the skin’s pH is too acidic? (below 4)
Acid makes the skin acidic, and skin with a pH value below 4 is often hypersensitive, susceptible to infection and appears red and irritated. This skin condition is not very common, but can occur if, for example, the skin is treated with a high-concentration chemical peel or undergoes other cosmetic chemical treatments where the skin is ‘stripped’ of its natural oils. However, it can also be caused by acid-based cleaning products, such as descaling agents, or something as natural as the acid found in lemons. Most skincare products available in shops that contain chemical peels or fruit acids can be used on the skin without concern. However, it is still important to exercise caution when using acid-based skincare products. If your skin starts to break out more frequently and becomes more sensitive, the cause may be that the product is too harsh for your skin, or that you are using it too often.
The essential role of pH in wound healing, eczema and other dermatological conditions
Scientific evidence shows that a neutral-alkaline pH value can be measured in, amongst other things, chronic wounds and areas of the skin affected by eczema-like conditions. These studies demonstrate that if wounds and other dermatological issues on the skin’s surface are stimulated towards an acidic pH, the skin’s defence mechanism will undergo a better and more effective healing process than if it remains in its neutral or alkaline state. A stabilised pH level therefore plays an essential role in wound healing, as well as in skin conditions and common dermatological disorders such as seborrhoeic dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea, eczema and acne.*
At Karmameju, we want to see much more discussion of the skin’s pH level within the skincare industry, as it forms the very foundation of our skin’s health, general condition and appearance.
All the best
Christina, skincare expert at Karmameju
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